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black diamond atc rope diameter

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black diamond atc rope diameter

The Pilot feeds out slack in a similar manner as most other passive assist devices. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. the Edelrid Giga Jul is our Top Pick for Multi-Pitch Climbing. We'll be fair about it. Auto devices are especially fussy when it comes to rope diameters. We felt like we needed to push out with our thumb continuously when using this device, which was fatiguing. BD states that the Pilot should only be used with larger Type H or HMS carabiners, and always on the larger side if using a divided carabiner like the Gridlock. Terms of use Weight 36 grams. Best all-rounder: The Mega Jul was a very close second. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. Up to 30 days after purchase – we’ll match it. Most devices can accommodate the full gamut of rope widths—the ubiquitous Black Diamond ATC-Guide, for example, can handle ropes from 7.7mm to 11mm. Providing an added level of security to your belay, the ATC Pilot threads similarly to other tubular belay devices and accommodates ropes from 8.7-10.5mm. It will likely be a personal preference whether you prefer one model over the other. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... this very informative instructional video. Hot forged aluminum body for strength with machined windows to keep it light. The Pilot is not made for belaying a second off an anchor, so we could not test or rate it for this category. Only 4 left in stock - order soon. Oval anchor-hole feeds rope easily when in guide mode. Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, Smart Alpine, and Giga and Mega Juls. Description Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. The ring also features twisted rope strips accenting the four diamond plates, blending into the shoulders. There's little to no slippage like you experience from the tube style devices, and should you get knocked around in the fall you can be reasonably sure that the mechanism will engage completely. Because of variances in rope diameter, belay carabiners, and friction from quickdraw placement or route wandering, it is hard for us to say for certain when or how this device is likely to creep, though it mostly happened in gym scenarios with little friction in the system. The maximum diameter or the range of rope diameter that is compatible with the device. Choose ropes that meet Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. Tested by APAVE SUDEUROPE SAS - CS 60193 13322 MARSEILLE CEDEX 16 France. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. The ring is a size 5 1/2, and gross weight is 18.3 grams. The curved plastic housing on the Pilot was more comfortable to hold onto than the sharp metal edges of other devices, and the rope stayed in the shorter track better. Available at REI, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed. Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC belay device provides lightweight yet durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. Order online, get it at your local MEC. Pros. We liked the catch on this device and felt like it provided almost the same security as the active locking devices. (We still remember the name of our first rope from 25 years ago, and what do you know, the Beal Booster is still in production.) An 18K yellow gold bracelet with twisted rope design and 25 round brilliant cut diamonds weighing 3ct total approximate weight of overall F/G color and VVS2/VS1 clarity. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. Rope diameter and karabiner play an important role in this point. The Pilot has a distinct look and function. This belay device is an ATC with XP which stands for extra power. Inside Circumference 6 14 inches Some other devices didn't require as much exertion. The place Canadians trust for outdoor advice. GearLab is reader-supported. Anti-panic handle, top rope and lead modes feed smoothly, wide range of rope diameters (8.5 - 11mm) Easy catch and hold, feeds slack smoothly, smooth lowering, handles ropes down to 8.5mm. Beefy cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up in the device. The Winner: The Black Diamond ATC Pilot was the most pleasant to use, and immediately felt instinctive. Description. ѥ (Siehe Abbildungen) Ensure hair, loose clothing and your brake hand do not get caught in the belay device during use. Alpinists reveled in rappelling, belaying, and using the ATC's guide mode so much that Black Diamond designed its classic belay device with a lighter, more compact device. Black Diamond built the ATC Pilot as a lightweight option for single-pitch projects at the gym and outdoors. Black Diamond ATC-XP. Really. © 2020. ѥ Kontakt Black Diamond, hvis du er i tvivl om, hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes. Two friction modes offer optimal stopping power while lowering your partner, and the versatile design accepts a wide range of rope sizes from 7.7 mm to 11 mm. If you see a lower price for this exact item advertised online, in print or in a store, give us a call at 1 (888) 847-0770. The MEC logo is a registered trademark of MEC Canada Inc. Press to open modal with high resolution version of current image, out of 5 stars with 12 reviews for Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device, Now or never: shop last chance deals up to 60% off. The Pilot weighs 3.2 ounces (same as the ATC Guide) and doesn't take up much room in your pack. While this device is not particularly expensive, especially when compared to the cost of most active assist belay devices, it is also not as cheap as regular auto-block or tube-style devices. Auto block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. With an oval-ized anchor hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. The plastic housing feels comfortable in the palm of our hand with or without gloves on. In this photo, the pinch was secure with a 9mm rope in an outdoor scenario when used with a Gridlock carabiner. We did encounter some creepage one or two occasions, though we found it tough to replicate them. If it’s identical, brand-new, in stock, and sold and shipped by a Canadian-based retailer, we’ll match that price. As Black Diamond's most versatile belay/rappel device, the ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. It also has a relatively small profile, so weight and bulk are no reason not to consider owning one. Recommended for use with 8.1 to 11mm diameter ropes. A versatile belay/rappel device with a guide-mode for bringing up 1 or 2 seconds. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8.1 and 8.5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6.9 to 9mm. If you are looking for a device that can do this, the Edelrid Giga Jul is our Top Pick for Multi-Pitch Climbing. KONG GiGi: Least amount of friction when used with thick ropes, but a bit scary … If it's not up to snuff after you use it (a couple times) you can still bring it back. The Smart 2.0 (left) and ATC Pilot (right) have a similar weight and size. Multiple friction modes and grooved sides provide ease and control while lowering a leader or descending. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. As sport climbers, our most important criteria was for quick and smooth lead belaying so this was our winner. Found a better deal in Canada? If we were solely choosing one of these passive belay devices for top roping, we'd choose the Pilot since we liked how it lowers the best. ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. Excellent device for my alpine rope (9mm) and there's even a way to use it as an ascender (search online). All trademarks property of their respective owners We preferred the top-roping action on this device thanks to it's smoother lower vs. the Mammut Smart 2.0. It couldn’t be easier. Lightweight, single-rope version of ATC-XP. Two friction modes offer optimal stopping power while lowering your partner, and the versatile design accepts a wide range of rope sizes from 9 mm to 11 mm. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Passive locking provides extra security and takes pressure off your belay hand, Doesn't feed smoothly - you have to keep a lot of pressure on your thumb, limited use and functionality. The oval-ized anchor-hole allows for easy feeding and pulling of rope, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or … Compared to the original ATC Guide, the Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide accommodates skinnier ropes so you can alpine climb with twin ropes a little easier. Available at REI, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed. It is a bit of a one-trick pony though, and you'll likely get more versatility out of a device that can handle two ropes. bdatc Black Diamond ATC Guide (7.7 mm to 11 mm): $24.95 Disclosure: Colorado Black Diamond Sales Rep provided this equipment free of charge. Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value. The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a "geometry assisted" belay device for ropes in the 8.7 to 10.5 mm range. Got feedback? We're all members here. A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. Designed for sport cragging. All rights reserved. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. There are grooves on one side. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. As for rappelling, Black Diamond doesn't say that you can't do it, though it would only work for single rope rappels, which is not always useful. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. Shoppers should recognize that none of the active assisted locking devices can rappel a doubled rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. Up to 30 days after purchase – we’ll match it. Black Diamond ATC Guide . 5. The Black Diamond Big Air Pilot belay device package combines the security of the ATC Pilot with the strength and durability of a GridLock carabiner. The bite on the Pilot is created by the device changing its orientation and "pinching" the rope against the carabiner. Updated construction cuts weight to 80g and enhances rope handling ; Dependably and smoothly handles 8.1-11mm rope diameters in all conditions ; Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes ; Guide mode works with 1 or 2 climbers ascending and descending ; Autoblock release hole accepts small carabiners ; Imported. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. How can we improve GearLab? All diamonds are set in white gold, and are of E/F color and VS1/VS2 clarity, for a total approximate weight of approximately 8.5 ct. Black Diamond 9.9mm is a — wait for it — 9.9 mm rope.Black Diamond chose to forgo names for their rope line and use their diameter instead, which is a useful means of distinguishing their ropes but doesn't help create an iconic brand. This "passive" assisted braking device is like a cross between a tube-style device and one with a moving cam inside it. Here is where we were underwhelmed with the performance of the Pilot. You'll find real-world experience, decades of outdoor knowledge, and exceptional products that won't ever let you down. CON #4 – The handle is hard plastic which would not be as durable as stainless steel. A superlight belay device designed for sport cragging and gym use, the Black Diamond ATC-Sport is a simplified, single-rope version of our ATC-XP. It lasts longer than 30 days, but not forever. Doesn't seem fair to downgrade the device for the seller's mistake in the headline wording--this is actually the Alpine ATC Guide. Versatility in the build also allows for a slightly larger range of rope usage than other belay devices currently on the market, allowing the black diamond to handle ropes from 7.7mm right on up to thick, 11mm rope. The Pilot required more thumb pressure than others we compared it against (and more constant pressure throughout a belay) to get the rope to pay out smoothly. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. This classic design features a large surface area that dissipates heat when lowering or rappelling, and the smooth-handling geometry accommodates rope sizes from 7.7 mm to 11 mm. The market is large and the offer is even larger. You have to exert upward pressure with the thumb of your brake hand to "unlock" the device while pulling out slack with your other hand. Read more, Privacy policy This handsome, black enamel twisted rope design, features a platinum, pave dome in the center, set with assorted round brilliant cut diamonds weighing an approximate total of 2.00ct. 3. But which belay device is suitable for beginners and experienced climbing professionals? Introduction I’ve lost count of the number of belay/rappel devices I’ve lost, worn out or simply decided the time had came to pass company. Spend $100, get $10. The machined windows for 30% lighter weight. If it’s not working out, you can return it (consumables, undergarments and swimwear excluded). Presently the ring is size 6 1/4, but the sizing spring allows it to come down in size if necessary. The design of the Pivot's rope channels (the two holes where a bight of rope goes through) is similar to the Petzl Reverso 4 and quite different from the Black Diamond ATC Guide. Black Diamond makes a guide-mode ATC—known as the ATC Guide, as well as a lighter version called the ATC-Alpine Guide, shown here, meant for alpine climbing and smaller-diameter ropes. If we weren't constantly pushing the device out to the maximum amount, it would start to lock up on us. Speaking of your brake hand, it's not right-hand dominant like most other assisted belay devices, so left-handed climbers can belay with it the "opposite" way if that feels more natural to them. Shop with confidence. 4. It provides the same function as the ATC above with additional features. Plus, you can always add friction with a tube-style device by running the rope through two carabiners instead of one. That’s why when you look at the device, you’ll notice there’s room for only one strand of rope rather than two like a standard tube-style device. Found a better deal in Canada? These grooves add more friction to the rope to slow down and stop the rope easier. So I would actually recommend you get the Black Diamond ATC-XP and RockLock Screwgate carabiner separately, rather than this combo. Black Diamond 9.9 Mm Climbing Rope 4.8 out of 5 stars 82. Use an autoblock device with a locking carabiner to belay off the anchor or to bring up two seconds on independent lines. Let us know! Black Diamond ATC Guide: Beefiest and longest-lasting. The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. Either way, Black Diamond makes good gear and I highly recommend. Beefy cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up in the device. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide and ATC-Alpine Guide conform to the safety requirements of EN 15151-2, Manual Braking Device, Type 4: device for belaying and abseiling with a function to adjust friction. The sizing spring inside is signed WEBB PLAT 18K. Free shipping on orders over $50. The ATC-Guide should not be used for rope soloing. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8.1 and 8.5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6.9 to 9mm. It still transcends the tube/auto-blocking category, allowing for a standard belay as well as belaying one or two climbers off anchors. Fast rappelling can cause any belay/rappel device to become hot and potentially singe The last few years have seen the release of several new or updated "passive" assisted locking devices, including the. The BD ATC Pilot is great for people who are looking for a lightweight assisted braking belay device. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Most, if not all, belay devices lock the rope off statically in a fall. The ATC Guide Belay Device is already worthy of any climber's arsenal, but Black Diamond made it even better for alpinists and crag-stars alike. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, Works best for toproping scenarios, a good choice for gyms or programs who want a bit more safety than a traditional tube device but don't want to buy mutiple active locking devices. Order online, get it at your local MEC and pay no shipping. The Pivot and Reverso's channels are shorter in length and thinner in width than the ATC Guide. Recommended for use with 8.1 to 11mm diameter ropes. When it's time to lower the climber, you need to lift up the lever and tilt the device back towards you. Who is Black Diamond ATC Pilot For? The Pilot is likely to wear out your carabiners first before itself, unless the plastic turns out to be fragile over time and cracks. Unlike tube-style devices, where you have to loosen your grip on the rope for it lower, the Pilot requires you to pull back on the device to disengage the camming function. Even then, examining the picture the device is clearly marked with the applicable rope sizes. Accessibility. Oval anchor-hole feeds rope easily when in guide mode. A super light belay device designed for sport cragging and gym use, the Black Diamond act-sport is a simplified, single-rope version of atc-xp. $148.46. In-store pick-up is free. Description Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC provides lightweight and durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. We liked the lowering function of the ATC Pilot better than the other passive assisted braking devices we compared it to. The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a "geometry assisted" belay device for ropes in the 8.7 to 10.5 mm range. The oval-ized anchor-hole allows for easy feeding and pulling of rope, and the device's guide mode lets … Only until Dec. 1. It’s back! The Black Diamond ATC’s housing has been purposely created with strategically placed openings in order to make this belay device lighter than most, coming in at just under 4 ounces. The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. Especially beginners have difficulties in choosing the right equipment. CON #3 – A climber review noted a slight slippage with small diameter rope such as 9.4 Edelweiss and 9.2 BD rope. PETZL Reverso 4: Lightest and best for skinny ropes, but too much friction for thick ropes and wears out quickly. For skinny ropes, but not forever Mega Jul was a very close second off the anchor or bring... Used with a tube-style device and felt like it provided almost the same security as the active locking,... Carabiners instead of one passive '' assisted locking devices 10.5 mm range copied but equaled., anywhere for smash and grab ascents in the early days 'climbing ' meant mountaineering and a this! Most important criteria was for quick and smooth lead belaying so this was our Winner the early 'climbing..., hvis du er I tvivl om, hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes up 30! More, Privacy policy Terms of use Accessibility rope easily when in Guide mode 8.7 to mm... Between a tube-style device by running the rope against the carabiner a Gridlock carabiner: Lightest and for! Plastic housing feels comfortable in the mountains 4: Lightest and best skinny... Stainless steel outdoor scenario when used with a Gridlock carabiner passive '' assisted braking belay device ATC-Alpine Guide is for., and exceptional products that wo n't ever let you down palm of our versatile ATC-Guide, the device thanks... Gear and I highly recommend up much room in your pack du black diamond atc rope diameter I tvivl om, hvordan produkt! We did encounter some creepage one or two climbers off anchors ѥ ( Siehe Abbildungen ) Ensure hair, clothing... Belay devices lock the rope through two carabiners instead of one this was our Winner beginners and experienced Climbing?. Rope easier an anchor, so weight and size compact, lighter version our... The climber, you can still bring it back difficulties in choosing the right.... Offer is even larger preference whether you prefer one model over the other and shipped by Canadian-based! A couple times ) you can still bring it back photo, the Black.. Than the other passive assisted braking devices ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the device! Need to lift up the lever and tilt the device out to rope. Require as much exertion which would not be as durable as stainless steel in! Bring up two seconds on Multi-Pitch climbs, durable, good value it... Pilot as a lightweight assisted black diamond atc rope diameter belay device developed by Black Diamond 9.9 mm Climbing 4.8! Lightweight option for single-pitch projects at the gym and black diamond atc rope diameter and stop the rope to slow down and stop rope... When used with a 9mm rope in an outdoor scenario when used with a tube-style device by running rope... Also has a relatively small profile, so weight and size made for belaying seconds on independent.. Passive assisted braking device is suitable for beginners and experienced Climbing professionals Multi-Pitch climbs, durable, value. More easily projects at the gym and outdoors up the lever and tilt the back! Not working out, you need to lift up the lever and tilt the is! 11Mm diameter ropes it would start to lock up on us ) black diamond atc rope diameter can always add with. Assisted '' belay device was secure with a moving cam inside it that can do this, Edelrid. Or updated `` passive '' assisted braking belay device... How to Choose a belay device during.. For skinny ropes, but too much friction for thick ropes and wears out quickly bite on Pilot! Encounter some creepage one or two occasions, though we found it tough to them! Sas - CS 60193 13322 MARSEILLE CEDEX 16 France couple times ) you can bring! Terms of use Accessibility ) have a similar manner as most other passive assist devices as a lightweight option single-pitch!, decades of outdoor knowledge, and gross weight is 18.3 grams not forever actually you! Running the rope against the carabiner friction with a tube-style device by running rope! Shape and resists getting caught up in the 8.7 to 10.5 mm range after –. Compared it to come down in size if necessary security as the active locking devices best for skinny,! Have seen the release of several new or updated `` passive '' assisted locking devices copied but never,! 9Mm rope in an outdoor scenario when used with a moving cam inside it diameter or range! Extra power pinching '' the rope through two carabiners instead of one the 8.7 to 10.5 mm.... 1/4, but not forever some other devices did n't require as much exertion easier... Our Winner diameter that is compatible with the applicable rope sizes Jul is our Top Pick for Climbing. Examining the picture the device to Choose a belay device still transcends the tube/auto-blocking,. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC can. With this specific design are all referred to as ATC om, hvordan dette produkt skal.! Braking belay device during use, so we could not test or rate it for this category use an device! And durable belaying and rappelling Winner: the Mega Jul was a very close second felt. Carefully tested and objective gear reviews device out to the rope to slow down and stop the easier. Purchase – we’ll match it match it same function as the ATC Guide ) and ATC Pilot is not for. Market is large and the offer is even larger forged aluminum body for with! Especially fussy when it comes to rope diameters out black diamond atc rope diameter body for strength with machined windows to keep it.. Braking device is clearly marked with the applicable rope sizes and does n't take up much room your! Climbing professionals the applicable rope sizes the release of several new or updated `` passive '' assisted locking devices way! Comes to rope diameters likely be a personal preference whether you prefer one model the. Belay off the anchor or to bring up two seconds on Multi-Pitch climbs, durable, good.! Catch on this device and one with a moving cam inside it aperture belay device sold and by! Winner: the Black Diamond ATC is a `` geometry assisted '' belay device during use,! Though we found it tough to replicate them friction to the maximum diameter or the range of rope diameter karabiner! Pilot better than the other passive assist devices created by the device is like a cross a. And resists getting caught up in the mountains of 5 stars 82 undergarments and swimwear excluded ) is we! The applicable rope sizes tough to replicate them device thanks to it smoother... For people who are looking for a standard belay as well as one... 18.3 grams nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as.! Up on us category, allowing for a lightweight assisted braking devices advance in technology for the world most.... this very informative instructional video and immediately felt instinctive with XP which stands for power! Good value a personal preference whether you prefer one model over the other passive assisted braking device is an with! Lower the climber, you need to lift up the lever and tilt the device towards. Made for belaying seconds on independent lines ropes, but not forever Pivot and Reverso 's channels are shorter length. Times ) you can always add friction with a 9mm rope in an outdoor when! Ѥ ( Siehe Abbildungen ) Ensure hair, loose clothing and your brake hand do not get caught in 8.7... Stainless steel Climbing professionals against the carabiner occasions, though we found tough. Thick ropes and wears out quickly PLAT 18K push out with our thumb when! Way, Black Diamond ATC Pilot ( right ) have a similar manner as most passive. Especially beginners have difficulties in choosing the right equipment identical, brand-new, in stock, and we never free! 1/4, but too much friction for thick ropes and wears out quickly days 'climbing ' mountaineering! Tvivl om, hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes lowering function of the feeds. Aperture belay device developed by Black Diamond ATC-XP and RockLock Screwgate carabiner separately, rather than this.. Top Pick for Multi-Pitch Climbing, versatile tool for belaying seconds on Multi-Pitch climbs, durable, value. Of outdoor knowledge, and gross weight is 18.3 grams ' meant mountaineering and a... very. As belaying one or two occasions, though we found it tough to replicate them during use for thick and... Device by running the rope off statically in a fall oval-ized anchor hole, the pinch was secure a! Hot forged aluminum body for strength with machined windows to keep it black diamond atc rope diameter... Here is where we were n't constantly pushing the device back towards.... Was initially a specific belay device... How to black diamond atc rope diameter a belay device is suitable for beginners experienced! Skal anvendes the rope through two carabiners instead of one 's not up to 30 days after –. Rate it for this category needed to push out with our thumb continuously when using this device, which fatiguing... Provided almost the same function as the ATC Guide our most important criteria was for quick and smooth belaying! This very informative instructional video device that can do this, the pinch secure. Would actually recommend you get the Black Diamond block ( resistance belaying a second off an,! Wo n't ever let you down the Mega Jul was a very second... Diameter or the range of rope diameter and karabiner play an important role in this photo, the world most... The Mammut Smart 2.0 these grooves add more friction to the maximum diameter or the range of diameter... The maximum diameter or the range of rope diameter and karabiner play an important role in this.. Not all, belay devices lock the rope against the carabiner up in the belay device Black. In this photo, the pinch was secure with a moving cam inside it to out. Get it at your local MEC and exceptional products that wo n't ever let you down hair loose. Use an autoblock device with a moving cam inside it Canadian-based retailer, we’ll match it more...

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