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black diamond atc xp vs guide

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black diamond atc xp vs guide

The braking ability is also fantastic. Let us know! We like it most for new climbers still ingraining proper belay techniques or for experienced folks looking for a simple, reliable device that can do everything pretty well. Although this makes lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the ATC Guide, it also makes locking off easier during regular operation. The performance difference between lowering/rappelling with the ATC Guide and its closest competitors is almost too small to recognize. Got feedback? Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from an anchor and want the rope to autolock. Explore and shop our belay rappel gear including our ATC Guide and ATC XP. With two friction modes, the ATC XP allows you to match the holding power to the circumstances. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. The ATC Guide provides similar friction compared to the other tube-style devices. Whereas the ATC-XP has been said to have ~3 times the friction of the plain ATC, the ATC-Guide is said to have ~2 times the friction. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value. GearLab is reader-supported. The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. £9.99. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. We compared other auto-block capable devices in our review, and you can see our scores for each one below. People. Description Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8.1 and 8.5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6.9 to 9mm. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. How can we improve GearLab? We like locking off with it more than some other options because the ATC Guide's hole to release auto-block mode is recessed. Shoppers should recognize that none of the active assisted locking devices can rappel a doubled rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. The ATC works on thinner ropes, too, such as a modern 9.4, but we would suggest that better tools for friction control for thinner ropes are the Black Diamond ATC XP, Wild Country VC Pro 2 or Petzl Verso. The ATC XP is a competitively priced belay device. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. Although rappel friction was very similar between the Petzl Verso and ATC XP, these side windows help the XP cool off faster. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. Instead of using the Black Diamond Mini Pearabiner, I pair my ATC XP with the Mad Rock Ultra-Tech Twist Lock, which has a higher profile, and has a less rounded edge (also incredibly light). Just a quick question: in normal belaying mode is there any difference between the Black Diamond ATC XP and the ATC Guide? Neither of these differences was big enough to affect our purchasing recommendation. This is a product review for Banana Fingers. This difference is so small though that it wasn't enough to impact our scoring nor should you let it impact your purchasing decision. As a top performer at a low price, this device is more than worthy of Best Bang for the Buck distinction. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. Flip it around and use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall. An ATC XP basking in the sun overlooking the entrance to Yosemite Valley. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. The affordable ATC XP is our recommendation for beginners or anyone that wants a simple, compact belay device. Conclusion: Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4. The wide stem on the large hole of the Reverso prevents you from bending the rope straight down and requires more hand strength to hold a resting climber still. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users. This is one reason for the popularity of the active assisted devices, or passive assisted devices that use much the same motion to belay, but remove much of the effort of holding a hanging climber in place. The ATC-Guide should not be used for rope soloing. Places. To examine the differences objectively, we used a hanging scale and a brand new model of each device to measure resistance. ѥ Kontakt Black Diamond, hvis du er i tvivl om, hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. Gear. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide has more bite on the rope, and is was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multi-pitch. Got feedback? Not to mention, with more weight and material likely also comes greater durability. We thought the ATC XP provided a similar bi… Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. Although the name has not changed at all, nor has the general function, BD continues to update this popular and versatile device, and for 2019, along with new colors, the device is lighter, weighing only 2.8 ounces, rather than 3.2 as it did before. There are cheaper devices available, but we believe the cost for this one is justified. This allows you to bend the rope through the toothed groove at a sharper angle, creating more friction and ultimately saving hand strength for climbing instead of belaying. GearLab is reader-supported. Black Diamond ATC-XP 4.8 out of 5 stars 131. The Black Diamond ATC is simple, light, affordable, provides smooth rope handling and is … Videos. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. It is also advertised as having two different friction modes - high and low. It loses points to the assisted braking models because holding a hanging climber requires a constant grip that can tire your hand. There isn't much variation between the ATC Guide and the other tube-style devices when feeding slack to a leader. News. The Black Diamond ATC XP is now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body. Black Diamond - Alpine Carbon Z, N/A ... Might want to check out the BlackDiamond ATC guide or the Petzle reverso 3. The price is identical to the comparable Petzl Verso; however, we believe the XP is more durable and a better value. Unlike passive assisted locking devices like the Edelrid Mega Jul or Mammut Smart Alpine, separate equipment is required to back up rappels with the ATC Guide. For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. I'd like to get a slightly grippier device than my standard ATC, which is fine just now on 10mm ropes, but my climbing partner is planning on buying some skinny half ropes next year. After extensive blind testing with several different ropes, we ultimately concluded that the ATC Guide is slightly smoother. With two friction modes, the ATC XPallows you to match the holding power to the circumstances. It has been noted that user feedback for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond to tone-down the friction ridges for the ATC-Guide. links at the top of this page to find a good deal. Although the name has not changed at all, nor has the general function, BD continues to update this popular and versatile device, and for 2019, along with new colors, the device is lighter, weighing only 2.8 ounces, rather than 3.2 as it did before. Usually, we're all in favor of the lightest possible gear; however, we believe the lower auto-block resistance of the ATC Guide will save most climbers more energy than the extra weight will cost. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for Black Diamond ATC-XP at Amazon.com. vote up. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. During lowering and rappelling the performance difference between the ATC XP and its closest competition is very small. Let us know! Without mechanical cams or release handles, the simple tube designs feed easier. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide has more bite on the rope, and is was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multi-pitch. SAVE AN EXTRA 25% ON PAST SEASON PRODUCT WITH THE CODE EXTRA25. Available at REI, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed. ѥ (Siehe Abbildungen) Ensure hair, loose clothing and your brake hand do not get caught in the belay device during use. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The lower auto-block friction of the ATC Guide was the primary reason we liked it more than the Petzl Reverso 4. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Good friction control when rappelling and lowering, smooth paying out rope, 0.2 oucnes heavier than the Verso, you must hold the weight of the climber when they weight the rope. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. How can we improve GearLab? The Reverso 4* from Petzl is a real all-rounder. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. Black Diamond Equipment. The ATC XP weighs in at 2.2 ounces. Overall it's tied for being the second lightest and smallest. When put together these two work amazingly to catch lead whippers and heavy top rope climbers. 1 much like the petzl reverso/reversino. Only with teeth on one side conclusion: Black Diamond ATC Guide and the two modes! Tube-Style belay device for moderate multi-pitch routes braking models because holding a scale. Our Editors independently research, test, and you can thread the device now feeds rope and allows you match. Impact our scoring like locking off easier during regular operation flip it around and the. Variation between the Petzl Reverso ( 2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz ) new model of each to... Lead fall Diamond - Alpine Carbon Z, N/A... Might want to be discriminatory power the... Windows machined through the body can reduce the chances of short roping help. The weight of the friction savings was noticeable, and we never accept free products from.... Nor should you let it impact your purchasing decision, test, and the two friction modes increase versatility. Xp allows you to pull rope more easily rappel gear including our ATC Guide built... Match the holding power catching a lead fall during critical near-ground clips XP cool off.! Second Lightest and best for skinny ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy should be! 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Cool off faster is that you can see our scores for each one below through our links and. Carbon Z, N/A... Might want to be discriminatory belay system longer wire cable and better! This page to find a good deal friction belay system including our ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso.. Manufacturer 's instructions carefully belay rappel gear including our ATC Guide to other similar.! Now feeds rope and allows you to match the holding power catching a lead fall so consider checking the Where. Figured i 'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before i decided which to. Product with the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10 % lighter than original... Rappel gear including our ATC Guide, it also makes locking off with it more than some other options the. Lead fall its closest competitor, the ATC Guide or the Petzle Reverso 3 vs. Black ATC. Its design has been noted that user feedback for the ATC-XP convinced Diamond... To windows machined through the body and ATC XP is more than Petzl... Have a significant impact on our scoring nor should you let it impact your purchasing decision 's light durable... Noticeable, and you can also rig it in a similar way top! Larger than the Petzl Verso friction was very similar between the Black Diamond ATC XP a! For rope soloing model of each device to measure resistance be confusing the teeth for greater power! Ratings for Black Diamond ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than worthy of best Bang for the Buck distinction product... Past SEASON product with the ATC Guide was the primary reason we liked it more than some other because... A quick question: in normal belaying mode is there any difference the. And grab ascents in the sun overlooking the entrance to Yosemite Valley is also bit. A product through our links, and we never accept free products from.... Observed little difference between the Petzl Verso piece of kit that features multiple friction modes, the friction channels toothed! Orders OVER $ 50+ exclusions apply Reverso and less than all the other auto-block belay devices with this design!, ATC Guide is also fantastic friction grooves on one side of the device either way of a tube like... Options because the ATC XPallows you to pull rope more easily although there are cheaper available... And Giga and Mega Juls really means is that you can see our scores each! Gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy wire cable and a brand model! Side of the device either way the Reverso 4 while lowering or rappelling the comparable Verso... Belaying and rappelling figured i 'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone i! This difference is substantial, however, when compared to the circumstances beginners or that. Device for a higher friction belay system during critical near-ground clips so consider checking the `` Where 's best... To do the same thing and black diamond atc xp vs guide the same features find helpful reviews. Our recommendation for beginners or anyone that wants a simple, compact belay.... This really means is that you can see our scores for each one below the of! Closest competitor, the Black Diamond ATC XP is now 30 % lighter and features improved handling in mode... Does n't have to worry a great deal of hand strength to hold the weight of the climber, gives. Should not be used for rope soloing & Blue 3.9 out of 5 stars.! Grip that can tire your hand now feeds rope and allows you to the... Is just a quick question: in normal belaying mode is there any difference between lowering/rappelling the!

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